I have to agree with the famous French author, Guy de Maupassant, when he described Taormina as having “a landscape with everything on earth made to seduce the eyes, the mind and the imagination.”
Taormina is a sublime realm full of luscious flora and Bond-esque beaches with Mount Etna, one of the highest active volcanoes in Europe, bulging on the horizon. This swanky mountainside town on Sicily’s Ionian coast is also home to a stunning Greek theatre from the 3rd century BC. Have an Aperol spritz and try to think of any other beach destination with this much to offer.
It was early afternoon when we finished our drive from Agrigento and arrived at the Europecar rental office on the outskirts of Taormina. We turned in our steadfast Fiat panda and flagged a taxi for the rest of the way into town on a winding ascent of highway. We found Hotel Villa Nettuno with its gardens cascading over the terracotta exterior. The sea was visible beyond an embattled parapet lining the front terrace. Our host gave us a quick tour and showed us where breakfast would be served in the courtyard among endless geraniums and a clandestine crew of cats. The room was simple and clean, and the side balcony had the most breathtaking view.
Once check in was complete, we walked across the street (Via Luigi Pirandello) over to the entrance of the cable car used for descending to beach access. There were various ticket options to choose from depending on how many trips you’d need. After the scenic ride down, we took one final staircase to the crystalline waters of Lido Mazzaro beach. It was a peaceful afternoon in this serene little bay. We rented two lounge chairs and enjoyed a Caprese salad for lunch.
After a long spell of saltwater dips and drying in the sun, we journeyed back up on the cable car to Villa Nettuno for a quick change to dry clothes. Our plan was to see the Greek theatre since it stays open until an hour before sunset. Luckily it was within walking distance from the hotel.
Near the entrance gate were massive cypress trees and bougainvillea that spiraled sky high. It was ten euros for a ticket to see this ancient theatre surrounded by a fabulous backdrop. From here you can take in the panorama of coastline, Taormina’s pastel hues, and the shadowy form of Mount Etna.
On the walk leaving the theatre, there were many restaurants to choose from. We got a table outside at La Botte in Piazza Santa Domenica. A group of musicians performed as we shared some excellent pizza flecked with golden tomatoes and prosciutto. We also tried a divine local brew called Ulysses Blond Ale.
After dinner we passed through Piazza IX Aprile, Taormina’s exceptional main plaza.
The next morning we walked to the public gardens of Villa Comunale for more coastal vistas.
We descended on the cable car again, but this time we walked a little further south to Isola Bella. This nature reserve is known as the Pearl of the Ionian Sea.
Later on we returned to Lido Mazzaro beach. This time it was very windy and the waves surged in, lapping at the last row of lounge chairs. Suddenly I was struck across the eye by an umbrella pole that was ripped from its holder by the wind. A group of men who worked for the beach restaurant ran over to check on me. They asked with beautiful Italian accents if I felt confused or dizzy, then kindly brought me an ice pack the size of a football. I watched with one eye as people across the rest of the bay quickly rolled their umbrellas down. The restaurant owner gave us two free beers. If I had to sustain a minor injury, I’m glad it was among these hospitable people. Also, I like to think that the wind came down the coast through the Strait of Messina where Odysseus and his crew narrowly escaped Scylla and Charybdis. Thanks to the TLC and a touch of mythology, I recovered quickly. The wind died down and all evidence of the event vanished from my face.
We enjoyed the rest of the afternoon and then caught the cable car up the hillside once more. We stopped in at a little market and bought a bottle of white Mount Etna wine, made from grapes grown in volcanic rock. It tasted perfect on the side balcony at Hotel Villa Nettuno.
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