Now entering Sicily, an island of mythical status.
Coming into the Palermo airport, I was immediately transfixed by the fierce beauty of its coastline. Jagged cliffs jut out into the sea, capped by swaths of dark green where you wouldn’t be surprised to come upon Polyphemus surveying the shore with his solitary eye.
Set in the Conca D’Oro (the golden basin), surrounded by mountains and sea, Palermo is an alluring city. Faded facades drip in baroque embellishment. Arab-Norman domes spice up the skyline alongside gothic churches and neoclassical theatres. The wild myriad of cultural influences come to a heady culmination that make this a truly unique part of Italy.
It was a pleasure to arrive in Palermo on a Saturday evening to take part in la passeggiata, the customary after dinner stroll. The main streets in the historic center pulsate with vitality. The traffic is blocked off and throngs of people leisurely walk in impressive harmony; some eating candy colored gelato, or sipping on Moretti; others leading dogs or pushing strollers. Elegant older couples, boisterous groups of teenagers, and families with young children were all out enjoying the beautiful night together. The city was washed in a golden glow and a joyous river of voices filled the air.
Head to Quattro Canti to get an eye full of this opulent baroque square. The four curved facades contain statues depicting the seasons and four Spanish kings of Sicily. Throughout the day, the sun shines on at least one of the four building fronts, hence the nickname, Theatre of the Sun. It is a marvelous display of light and shadow.
The Cathedral of Palermo was subject to many additions and alterations that resulted in a fantastic blend of Moorish, Gothic, Norman, Baroque and Neoclassical styles. This world heritage site houses the tomb of Sicily’s first king, Roger II. Be sure to get a ticket for rooftop access. Climb the narrow spiral staircase to see gorgeous panoramic views of the city.
There are a few famous markets in Palermo, but Capo was my favorite. It’s colorful and chaotic with an occasional motor scooter rolling through. Mounds of vibrant produce overflow from crates and cuts of fresh swordfish lay out on ice.
The arancini at this stand was delicious! These are fried rice balls with ham and cheese. This man drew lots of customers with his charisma and a bit of singing.
Don’t miss the stunning Pretoria fountain, where water splashes a gathering of white marble mermaids, mythological beings, and Olympian Gods. These are the Gods who fought a ten year war to overthrow the Titans. Leoluca Orlando, the mayor of Palermo, deserves a place among them for battling the reign of the Cosa Nostra. This city was terrorized for so long by the mafia, but it has made a huge transition thanks to leaders like Orlando. The problems with organized crime have diminished drastically. Palermo is flourishing in its own renaissance of restoration and recovery that could only be accomplished with Olympian determination.
https://www.theguardian.com/cities/2017/mar/27/resurrection-palermo-mafia-battlefield-culture-capital
Visit the Pretoria fountain during the day and see it at night. Decide for yourself if it looks more exquisite after dark.
Be sure to linger in front of Teatro Massimo, the largest theatre in Italy. The final scenes of the last Godfather were filmed here, juxtaposing brutal murders with an opera in this grandiose setting. Guarding the entrance at either side is a statue of a woman riding a ferocious looking lion. I’m guessing this is Rhea, the mother of Gods. Love it.
Don’t miss the view of Teatro Politeama, also on Via Ruggiero Settimo.
Stop in at one of the classic salumerias for a delicious assortment of meats, cheeses and more.
Go see San Giovanni degli Eremiti, an Arab-Norman style church with remarkable domes, surrounded by dense gardens. Originally built in the 6th century, it has been altered and restored over the centuries. Wander through the cloister to the heart of the domed tower and you will find traces of faded fresco.
Not far from San Giovanni is the Royal Palace and the Palatine Chapel.
For dinner, try some pasta con le sarde (sardine pasta with wild fennel, pine nuts and raisins), caponata (eggplant appetizer) and cucumber salad with some local white wine. After dinner, don’t forget to order limoncello, chilled lemon liqueur. It’s all delish! There are so many inviting plazas with great dining choices!
I’m so glad to have stayed at Palazzo Pantaleo. It is a charming bed and breakfast in an unbeatable location. Giuseppe was a wonderful host. His wry humor was very entertaining; I’ve never laughed so much just checking into a b&b before. In the mornings, guests enjoy the most amazing breakfast spread of fresh apricots, cherries, yogurt, sesame biscuits, croissants and a variety of pistachio cream pastries.
There’s so much to see in this city. I definitely needed more time!
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